Trade Winds and Coral Dreams: Our First Sail Through French Polynesia

This is report about [Exotic sailing] Sailing in Tahiti, so you can read and have picture fr yourself, how it looks like on breathtaking French Polynesia islands. And of course JOIN!

This was our first sailing trip far from home, and we couldn’t have chosen a more remarkable destination than French Polynesia. The South Pacific offered us its full charm — warm, steady trade winds, turquoise lagoons, and a blend of culture, geology, and history found nowhere else. We sailed in October, just before the rainy season, and were lucky with the weather: gentle easterly winds carried us smoothly between Raiatea and Bora Bora.

Our route took us through the Leeward Islands — Raiatea, Taha’a, and Bora Bora — each with its own unique beauty. We visited pearl and vanilla farms, snorkeled among coral gardens filled with tropical fish, manta rays, and blacktip sharks, and hiked lush volcanic hills for views over the lagoons. The reefs impressed us most — vibrant living worlds that protect the islands and give life to countless species. Ashore, we felt the warm spirit of Polynesian culture, especially on Raiatea, the historical heart of the South Pacific.

The trip was a perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. We enjoyed calm passages and learned to handle a few bumpy upwind legs with growing confidence. Of all the islands, Raiatea became our favorite for its authenticity and cultural depth. This sailing journey left us with vivid memories of crystal waters, coral life, and the welcoming rhythm of island life — a perfect beginning to our exploration of the Pacific.

What follows is a day-by-day account of that second week—a week of practice, discovery, and plenty of unforgettable moments at sea.

• First days on Thaiti
  

  We arrived in Tahiti a few days before our sailing trip and decided to explore the island by car. Driving along the coastal road, we circled the island and enjoyed every meter of its tropical beauty — lush mountains on one side and the turquoise lagoon on the other. We stopped at the Water Gardens of Vaipahi, a peaceful spot filled with ponds, waterfalls, and blooming tropical plants.

  Later, we reached Tahiti Iti, the smaller and wilder peninsula of the island. There, near the famous Teahupo’o surf spot, we found a quiet beach with striking black volcanic sand — the only one of its kind we saw on the island. We skipped the surf trips and spent the afternoon snorkeling instead, spotting stingrays, breaching whales offshore, and schools of colorful fish in the clear water.

  We also visited the Botanical Garden of Papeari and took a short hike to admire the island’s rich vegetation and flowers. These first days on Tahiti gave us a wonderful taste of Polynesia — relaxed, vivid, and full of life — before our sailing adventure began.

• Boarding Day: From Tahiti to Our Floating Home
  

  After a few wonderful days exploring Tahiti, we took the ferry to Raiatea, where our beautiful Bali Leopard 4200 catamaran was waiting for us. The charter company met us right at the ferry terminal and drove us straight to the marina. After unloading our luggage, we immediately started preparations for the trip.

  Part of our crew went to the Carrefour supermarket in Uturoa — the island’s main town — to buy food and supplies. It’s a surprisingly well-stocked store for such a small island, offering everything from fresh tropical fruit to French cheese and, of course, local Hinano beer. Meanwhile, my crewmate and I stayed for the chart briefing, where we learned about navigation routes, safe anchorages, mooring options, and how to pass through the reef cuts safely. I also did the technical check-in and got instructions on how to operate the catamaran — from the generator and air conditioning to the water maker and sails.

  When our shopping team didn’t return for a long time, we started to worry. It turned out that all the supermarket taxis were booked out — island life moves at its own pace! After a few more adventures, they finally arrived with all the provisions and, most importantly, the beer. That evening we cooked a nice meal on board, discussed safety plans, and talked excitedly about the days of sailing ahead.

• From Breakfast to the Helm: Our First Day Underway
  

  We started the next day as soon as we woke up. After a quick breakfast and checking that everything on board was ready, we cast off the lines and left the marina. The morning air was calm, and it felt exciting to finally be underway on our own catamaran.

  Our first task was crew training. Since several of us were new to sailing, we spent the first hours practicing the basics. Everyone took turns at the helm, learning how to steer, keep a steady course, and change direction smoothly. We also practiced how to stop the boat safely and how to maneuver in reverse — a bit tricky at first! Because it was a catamaran, we trained how to pivot on the spot using only the two engines, an essential skill for docking and tight spaces. These exercises helped the crew get comfortable with the boat and start working together as a team.

  Once everyone felt confident, we hoisted the sails and headed toward our first destination — the pearl farm of Taha’a, ready to begin our island-hopping adventure.

• Where Pearls Grow and Currents Carry You
  

  We hurried through our training on the first day because the pearl farm we were heading to was only open until 1:00 PM. Luckily, our crew turned out to be fast learners — everyone picked up the maneuvers quickly, and we managed to reach the farm in time, picking up a mooring ball nearby. Without wasting a minute, we prepared the dinghy and went ashore to visit the Ia Orana Pearl Farm.

  There, we were given a fascinating presentation about how Tahitian black pearls are cultivated. We learned about the delicate process of inserting the nucleus, how the oysters are cared for, and how long it takes for each pearl to grow. Watching the “pearl surgery” was both precise and mesmerizing — true craftsmanship of the ocean. Of course, by the end of the tour, we all wanted to buy a few pearls as souvenirs. When the farm closed, we headed back to our catamaran, eager to enjoy the rest of the afternoon in the water.

  Just next to the Love Island Resort on Motu Tautau lies the famous Coral Garden, and that was our next stop. The spot is stunning — a shallow channel between two motus where a gentle current carries you slowly over colorful coral formations. At first, the drift felt a bit tricky, but once we relaxed, it was pure magic. We floated above coral bommies full of bright reef fish, spotted a longfin bannerfish, sea cucumbers, countless tiny coral fish, and even a curious stingray gliding past — an amazing sight for our very first snorkeling day!

  As the afternoon faded, a few thunderstorms passed in the distance, painting the sky in dramatic colors. We returned to the yacht, cooked dinner, played some music, and watched the sunset over Taha’a — a perfect ending to a beautiful day. Tomorrow, we sail to Bora Bora!

• Sailing to Bora Bora: Pearls, Jungle, and the Open Lagoon
  

  Before casting off for Bora Bora, we decided to visit the pearl farm once more — this time to choose and buy one of the beautiful pearls we had admired the day before. Each pearl seemed to hold a piece of the lagoon’s magic, and it felt special to take one home as a memory of Taha’a.

  Afterwards, we went for a short hike — just 600 meters, but it was worth it. The trail led us through lush tropical jungle where we could see the plants up close, take photos of bright flowers, ferns, and vines, and feel the island’s wild, humid air. Even a tiny walk in this landscape felt like an adventure.

  Back on the catamaran, we prepared for the short passage to Bora Bora. The easterly wind promised an easy downwind sail. We passed through the nearest reef cut smoothly and set our course — Bora Bora soon appeared on the horizon, its green peaks rising from the sea like a dream. The passage took about two hours, and once we arrived, we announced our visit and headed straight toward the famous manta ray cleaning station, where we hoped to spot mantas the next morning. The rest of the day we spent swimming around the boat and exploring the clear water below — every dive revealing something new and full of life.

• No Mantas, No Problem: A Day on Bora Bora
  

  Early the next morning, we headed quickly to the manta ray cleaning station. A friendly French captain we had met at the pearl farm had told us that if mantas come, it’s usually early in the morning — and if none appear by 10 a.m., there’s no point in waiting. So, we jumped into the dinghy and rushed toward the narrow passage between the corals, a spot we had found earlier on Google satellite images. After a bit of searching, we found it!

  We landed the dinghy on shore and met Tava, a friendly local who watches over the boats and opens the gate for those crossing his land to the reef area. Unfortunately, that morning no mantas appeared, and the visibility was poor. A strange shimmering effect showed up in the water — caused by the mixing of warm and cold layers — making everything appear blurry and dreamlike. Even without the mantas, it was still fascinating to experience this hidden corner of Bora Bora.

  After giving up on the mantas, we decided to take a short hike up Mount Popoti. From the top, we were rewarded with amazing views over the lagoon of Bora Bora and even a glimpse of Tupai, the heart-shaped atoll nearby. In the evening, we moved the catamaran to another anchorage known for eagle rays and blacktip reef sharks — ready for a new underwater adventure the next day.

• Where Rays Glide and Sharks Wander
  

  We arrived at another one of the few spots where anchoring is allowed around Bora Bora and wasted no time heading straight to the area known for its eagle rays. After securing the dinghy on the beach, some of us decided to explore the nearby motu, while others stayed close to the boat. It turned out that staying was the right choice — one after another, eagle rays began gliding gracefully right past the dinghy, their wide wings moving like slow underwater birds. Then came the blacktip reef sharks, curious but calm, circling peacefully in the clear lagoon. It was a magical moment — no rush, no crowds, just us and these beautiful creatures in their home waters.

  As the sun began to set, we returned to the catamaran, tired but happy. The evening was relaxed and cheerful — we played a few rounds of coup, our favorite card game, shared a bottle of wine, and watched the sunset over Bora Bora, painting the sky in gold and pink. Another perfect day in paradise.

• From Coral Gardens to Vaitape Streets
  

  We started early the next morning — it was going to be a full day of adventure. Right after breakfast, we jumped into the dinghy and headed to the famous Coral Garden between Motu Piti U’u Uta and Motu Piti U’u Tai. The spot is known for its strong currents that drift you gently over the reef, and we quickly discovered why it’s one of Bora Bora’s most beloved snorkeling sites. The water shimmered with color — parrotfish, triggerfish, surgeonfish, and countless tiny reef fish darted among the corals, while elegant stingrays and curious blacktip reef sharks cruised nearby. We even spotted a magnificent Napoleon wrasse, massive and calm, like a king of the reef. It was impossible to get enough of this magical underwater world.

  After exploring every corner of the coral garden, we returned to the catamaran and weighed anchor. Our next destination was the shark feeding station on the opposite side of Bora Bora. But before heading there, we wanted to make a short stop at Vaitape — the island’s only town — to enjoy a bit of its local life. The small harbor buzzed with boats and people, the air filled with the smell of grilled fish and fresh coffee. We wandered through souvenir stalls, found a few treasures to bring home, and soaked up the gentle rhythm of Bora Bora’s village life before setting sail again.

• Sharks, Mantas, and a Cup of Vanilla Coffee
  

  After spending about an hour in Vaitape, walking through the streets, tasting delicious Tahitian coffee with a hint of vanilla, and visiting a few small shops, we decided it was time to head toward the shark feeding station. To our delight, the place had several free mooring buoys, and we picked one right next to the site — perfect for a quick swim.

  We dropped the dinghy into the water, and some of us rushed off to look for sharks, while others chose to stay aboard and take a relaxed swim around the catamaran. And then, the unexpected happened — the sharks came to us! While the dinghy crew found nothing, those who stayed by the boat suddenly had company: several blacktip reef sharks gliding gracefully through the clear lagoon, curious and calm. It was one of those funny island moments when patience pays off.

  And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, a manta ray appeared, circling slowly near the surface — enormous, elegant, and utterly mesmerizing. At that moment, we could finally say it: our visit to Bora Bora was a complete success!

• Back to Raiatea: The Windy Way Home
  

  But even paradise days must come to an end, and eventually Bora Bora had to say goodbye to us. Early in the morning, a strong easterly trade wind was already blowing across the lagoon, so before leaving we put in the second reef and rolled out about 75% of the jib — just enough for a safe and steady passage. The ride back to Raiatea was lively and bumpy, but the catamaran handled it beautifully. Although cruising cats aren’t known for sailing well upwind, we managed to keep about 45° to the wind — with a little help from the engines, of course. After roughly four and a half hours and 30 nautical miles, the familiar outline of Raiatea came into view.

  We entered through the southern Teavamoa Pass and dropped anchor in a stunning bay near Tehurui. The scenery was breathtaking — lush green mountains, coconut palms leaning over the turquoise water, and a perfect calm after the rough open-sea crossing. For some of the crew, this was a special stop: they would be leaving Raiatea after our return, and this was their last chance to explore the island’s quiet southern beauty up close. After the long sail, nothing felt better than a refreshing jump into the clear, cool water before wrapping up the day with smiles and laughter.

• From Raiatea to Taha’a: Last Sail of the Trip
  

  Our final day of the trip had arrived. Early in the morning, we dropped off the part of the crew who wanted to explore Raiatea by car at a local restaurant. We took a short walk along the road to the nearby small marina — and once again saw sharks swimming just below the surface. It seems they are truly everywhere around these islands!

  Back on the catamaran, we cast off the anchor, set the sails, and enjoyed a fast, pleasant ride north toward the Pufau Cut. Passing through the entrance, we entered the calm lagoon and continued to Taha’a. The sheltered waters made sailing easy, and we reached our destination well before 2:00 PM. Finding a mooring spot was simple, and we headed straight to a vanilla farm Fare Vanira for a final taste of the island’s treasures.

  Tahitian vanilla is truly special, rich and fragrant, and it was impossible to resist buying a few to bring home. Of course, we also treated ourselves to some freshly roasted local coffee, savoring the flavors and the memories of our incredible sailing adventure across the South Pacific.

• The End of the Journey: Land, Lagoon, and Last Impressions
  

  As with all adventures, our trip was coming to an end. After learning how Tahitian vanilla is grown and enjoying a last stroll through the farm, we sailed back to our home base, returned the catamaran, and rejoined the “land crew.” They had managed to explore almost all of Raiatea — visiting the famous Taputapuātea Marae, taking short hikes, seeing the volcanic caldera, and marveling at the waterfalls. Staying two more nights on the island, their discoveries gave us valuable tips for how to spend the remaining time on land.

  Reflecting on the journey, it was truly a perfect mix of adventure, relaxation, and discovery. From navigating coral passages and snorkeling with stingrays, manta rays, and sharks, to exploring tropical jungles and learning about vanilla and pearls, every day offered unforgettable experiences. The South Pacific’s natural beauty, vibrant culture, and warm, welcoming spirit left a lasting impression on all of us.

For an even richer experience, don’t miss our video capturing the highlights and impressions of the trip — it brings the colors, the sounds, and the magic of these islands to life!

Conclusion

Looking forward to come to the French Polinesia Islands again!