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Olbia – preparation for the week
After efficient provisioning, safety checks and a quick look at the yacht, we went to a local restaurant for our first dinner together. We agreed on an early start the next morning. The plan was simple: sail to beautiful Cala Moresca, have breakfast there and start the day with a swim.
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First lessons and first sail
Before setting the sails, we used the first part of the morning for some practical training. Everyone had a chance to steer the yacht, hold a course and use the compass. Once everybody understood the basics, we set the sails and started looking at sail trim: how to choose the right angle, how to trim efficiently and how small changes can make a big difference.
Then the training was over and the sailing became real. We had a fast and enjoyable ride towards Cala Moresca.
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Breakfast in Cala Moresca
Cala Moresca is one of those places where Sardinia immediately looks like a postcard: clear turquoise water, small sandy beaches, rocks and the dramatic shape of Isola Figarolo in the background. The bay lies below Capo Figari and is well protected from some wind directions.
The area also has an interesting industrial past. Capo Figari was once an important centre for lime production, and old kilns can still be found around Cala Moresca. The stone was burned here and used for construction in the region.
We dropped the anchor, prepared a quick breakfast and jumped into the water. The first swim of the trip was exactly what we needed.
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Along the coast to Porto Palma
The wind was still quite strong, but it was coming from the west. By staying close to the coast, we could keep the waves relatively small while still enjoying plenty of wind.
After passing Isola Soffi, we finally had a beautiful open angle for sailing. We set the sails again and enjoyed a fast ride towards Porto Palma.
Porto Palma gave us a large and comfortable bay for the night. Once we had secured the mooring, we could relax, have a good dinner and explore the island.
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Sunset and the view from Poggio Bacca
The evening walk took us up towards Poggio Bacca. From above, the view over the coast and the surrounding islands was simply breathtaking. It was one of those moments when you stop walking for a while and just look.
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Capo Testa – a perfect day for sailing
The next morning we decided to head towards Capo Testa. I had another reason to visit this place: Capo Testa is famous for its granite rocks and climbing routes, and I wanted to see the area for myself.
Four hours of sporty upwind sailing brought us to the bay. Shortly after noon we dropped the anchor and, once again, jumped straight into the water.
The water was incredibly transparent. We spent hours swimming, watching countless small fish moving around the rocks. At one point I even spotted a small stingray.
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Capo Testa – rocks shaped by wind and water
Capo Testa is a very special landscape. Huge blocks of granite have been shaped by wind and water into strange forms that sometimes look like animals or giant sculptures. The area is also an old Roman granite quarry. Some partly finished columns are still visible, showing how the Romans extracted stone here for important buildings and monuments.
Today the same rocks attract climbers. The combination of unusual granite formations, sea views and many different routes makes Capo Testa a very interesting climbing area.
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Santa Teresa Gallura and a night under the stars
In the evening we sailed to Santa Teresa Gallura. What a cosy little town! We walked through the streets, had ice cream and coffee, and bought some fresh bread and guanciale for the next day.
Santa Teresa itself is relatively young. The town was founded in 1808 and named after Maria Theresa of Austria-Este, the wife of King Victor Emmanuel I. But the area is much older, with Nuragic archaeological sites and Roman remains nearby.
The return to the yacht was in complete darkness. The sky was clear and full of stars, making the short night walk back to the boat another small adventure.
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Searching for climbing routes
The next morning we still had Bonifacio in our plans, but first I wanted to explore Capo Testa properly. I spent about two hours walking between the enormous granite formations, looking for the climbing areas and studying the visible routes.
Eventually I found them. Now I know where we can come back for a proper climbing and sailing trip. Plans for the next adventure were already forming.
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Crossing the Strait of Bonifacio
Back on the yacht, we had another quick swim and some sandwiches. Then we set the sails and headed towards Corsica.
The wind was perfect for a beam reach. We needed only about 40 minutes to cross the Strait of Bonifacio. The strait is one of the most famous passages in the Mediterranean, separating Sardinia from Corsica. It is also well known among sailors for strong winds, currents and complicated navigation around the islands and reefs.
And then we reached Bonifacio – together with almost everyone else.
There was a small traffic jam in the harbour, as many boats had exactly the same idea: arrive around noon. Luckily, our berth was reserved, so there was no reason to hurry. After some waiting, we were given our place, parked the yacht and started enjoying Bonifacio.
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Bonifacio – a city above the sea
Bonifacio is one of the most spectacular harbour towns in the Mediterranean. The old town sits high above the sea on dramatic white limestone cliffs. The harbour itself lies deep inside a narrow natural inlet.
The location has been important for sailors for centuries. Bonifacio became a major Genoese stronghold, and its position allowed it to control the important sea route between Corsica and Sardinia. The fortified town and citadel were developed over many centuries and still dominate the landscape today.
In the evening the town was lively and loud. Club B52 kept the party going until around 2 am. Everyone seemed to enjoy it. I preferred a quieter adventure and walked up towards the castle, where I could look over the harbour and admire Bonifacio at night.
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From Bonifacio to Lavezzi
The next morning started slowly with some shopping before we cast off. Our main destination was La Maddalena, but we decided to make a stop at the Lavezzi Islands.
Lavezzi looked like the perfect place for another swim and some snorkelling. The islands are famous for their clear water, pale granite rocks and protected natural environment.
This time, however, nature did not give us the fish show we were hoping for. We found plenty of rocks and wonderfully clear water, but not much else. Still, the swim was refreshing and the stop was worth it.
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Back to Sardinia – La Maddalena
After Lavezzi we set the sails again and headed back across the Strait of Bonifacio towards La Maddalena.
Once again, the sailing was fast. The crossing took only about an hour, and having a reserved berth made the whole arrival completely stress-free.
In the evening we explored the town of La Maddalena. We found a bar serving Sardinian beer, so naturally a tasting session had to happen.
We also discovered another important local question: what is the difference between red and green Mirto? The answer was quickly tested rather than discussed theoretically.
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La Maddalena – islands full of history
The La Maddalena Archipelago is not only beautiful but also full of history. The islands were an important strategic point between Sardinia and Corsica. In 1793 they successfully resisted a French attack in which a young Napoleon Bonaparte took part.
Later, Admiral Horatio Nelson used the archipelago as a base for his fleet. And in the 19th century, the nearby island of Caprera became the home of Giuseppe Garibaldi, one of the key figures of Italian unification.
Today the archipelago is a protected national park, with dozens of islands, rocky bays and some of the clearest water in the Mediterranean.
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A full day under sail
The weather forecast was still excellent, so the next day we decided to use the whole day for sailing. From La Maddalena we headed south towards Tavolara.
The wind gave us another beautiful sailing day. No rush, no need to motor – just the yacht, sails, wind and the changing Sardinian coastline.
By around 17:00 we reached Tavolara and dropped anchor. There was still plenty of time for an evening swim.
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Tavolara – the smallest kingdom
Tavolara looks almost unreal from the sea. A huge mountain rises directly from the water, reaching about 560 metres. The island is part of the protected Tavolara–Punta Coda Cavallo marine area, famous for its clear water and rich underwater life.
Tavolara is also famous as the “smallest kingdom in the world”. According to the local legend, King Carlo Alberto of Savoy visited the island and recognised Paolo Bertoleoni as its king. His descendants still live on the island and remain closely connected with its unusual history.
That evening we enjoyed one of the last evenings of the trip with a bottle of wine, a good dinner and the feeling that the week was slowly coming to an end.
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The last morning – almost peaceful
The next day we had only about eight nautical miles to Olbia, so there was no reason to hurry.
Some of us wanted to hike on Tavolara, while others preferred one last snorkelling session. Unfortunately, the coast guard asked us to re-anchor. Later another yacht dragged its anchor and ended up dancing around ours for a while.
We eventually managed to get everything under control and free the yacht, but the planned snorkelling trip was over.
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Back to Olbia
After the final short sail to the marina, we refuelled, cleaned up and parked the yacht. The sailing week was officially over.
But before everyone disappeared into airports, cars and normal life, we had one final dinner together.
Looking back, it was a week with almost everything we could ask for: strong and perfect sailing wind, fast crossings, beautiful bays, transparent water, swimming, training, climbing exploration, historic towns, islands, good food and a few unexpected adventures.
And, as always, the best part was not only the places we visited, but the combination of sailing, learning, exploring and sharing all of it with a good crew.
Another great week of sailing in Sardinia, with perfect wind, fast sailing and plenty of swimming in crystal-clear water. From Olbia we explored Cala Moresca, Porto Palma, Capo Testa and Santa Teresa before crossing the Strait of Bonifacio to Corsica.
After visiting Bonifacio and the Lavezzi Islands, we returned to La Maddalena and spent a full day sailing south to Tavolara. Along the way we combined sailing training, beautiful anchorages, island walks, good food and even some climbing exploration.
A week full of wind, sunshine, clear water, new places and a few unexpected adventures – exactly what a good sailing trip should be.
To complement this report, we have also created a video capturing some of our favorite impressions from the journey.