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Embarkation Day
Our adventure began on the first day with the yacht check-in and preparations for the voyage ahead. After taking over the boat, we completed the necessary formalities, stocked up on provisions, and carefully organized our supplies for the week. Before departure, we conducted a thorough safety briefing, reviewing emergency procedures, safety equipment, and responsibilities on board. With everything prepared and the crew ready, we looked forward to an early start the next morning, eager to set sail for the Aeolian Islands and begin our exploration of this unique volcanic archipelago.
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First Lessons at Sea
We started early in the morning and focused on sailing training. Everyone practiced the basic skills needed to handle the yacht safely. This included steering the yacht, keeping a steady course, stopping the boat, reading the compass, and understanding conditions on the water.
During the day, we practiced different sailing maneuvers, such as sailing figure-eight patterns and making 180-degree turns. These maneuvers are important for returning to a previously sailed course line, for example in poor visibility, or for returning to an object lost overboard.
Some crew members were preparing for a sailing exam, so special attention was given to their training. They practiced additional maneuvers, including Mediterranean mooring, where the yacht is backed stern-first toward a pontoon or quay. This required precise boat handling and good teamwork.
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The Dinghy Disaster
We arrived at the anchorage near Vulcano and celebrated with a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear water. It finally felt like our sailing trip had truly begun. After settling in, we discussed our plans for the next days and prepared to go ashore.
However, our plans changed unexpectedly when we discovered that the dinghy had a fist-sized hole and could no longer be used safely. After contacting the charter base and arranging for a replacement dinghy, there was little else to do but adapt to the situation.
Instead of going ashore, we spent a relaxed evening on board. We prepared a barbecue, enjoyed good food, opened a bottle of local wine, and watched the sun set over the island. The disappointment about the damaged dinghy quickly faded as we enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere at anchor.
The crew planned to climb Vulcano the next day, while I, as skipper, would stay behind to receive the replacement dinghy. But that was a problem for tomorrow. For now, it was time to relax and enjoy the evening.
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From Vulcano to Stromboli
The morning began with waiting for the replacement dinghy to arrive. While staying near the harbor, we used the time to practice man-overboard maneuvers, an important part of the sailing exam training. The exercises helped the exam candidates improve their boat-handling skills and emergency procedures.
Meanwhile, the rest of the crew set out to climb Vulcano. We agreed to meet later at a nearby café and possibly visit the famous sulfur baths. When the hikers returned, they spoke enthusiastically about the stunning views from the summit, with clear panoramas of Lipari, Salina, and the surrounding sea.
We met for coffee and traditional Sicilian cannoli, taking some time to relax and discuss our plans. Looking at the weather forecast, we knew that stronger winds were expected within the next two days. Since Stromboli offers only limited protection for yachts, we decided it would be best to visit the island before the weather changed.
Another reason for our decision was that Stromboli's volcanic activity is most impressive after sunset, when glowing eruptions can sometimes be seen against the dark sky. With that in mind, we weighed anchor and set sail in the afternoon, aiming to reach Stromboli by nightfall.
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Eruptions at Dawn
In the evening, we set off toward Stromboli. The sea was completely calm, so we used the “iron sails” — the engine — to make steady progress across the water. By sunset, we passed Panarea and continued toward Stromboli, planning to round the island at night to see its famous eruptions.
When we arrived, the night was pitch black and conditions felt less inviting for continuing the passage. We decided instead to drop anchor behind Punta Lena. There, we enjoyed a quiet evening on board with a glass of wine and some rest.
Early the next morning, we set out again, this time before sunrise. As we rounded Stromboli, the experience was unforgettable. In the darkness, the volcano rewarded us with spectacular eruptions, glowing against the night sky exactly as hoped.
After passing the island, we continued our voyage toward Salina.
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Salina and Sailing Practice
We arrived in Salina early in the morning and first dropped anchor in a calm bay. After the passage, we refreshed ourselves with a swim in the clear water and then took a short rest on board to recover.
In the afternoon, we continued training for the sailing exam. This time we practiced maneuvers under sail, focusing on more advanced boat handling skills. One of the key exercises was the so-called Q-Turn, which is used to safely return to a previous point even in difficult conditions such as poor visibility or complex situations at sea. Practicing this maneuver is important because it improves safety and control in real navigation scenarios.
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Salina and a Taste of Island Life
After completing our sailing training, we headed to the marina. Strong winds of around 26 knots made the docking maneuver more challenging, but with the right technique and good teamwork, everything went smoothly.
Once safely moored, we completed the necessary formalities with the harbor master and then set out to explore the town. We enjoyed a leisurely walk to Punta Lingua, taking time to experience the atmosphere of the island and its charming streets.
We decided not to venture any farther, choosing instead to spend a relaxed evening on board. Another barbecue was quickly agreed upon, and soon the familiar smell of grilled food filled the air.
There is something special about these small Italian island towns. Walking through their narrow streets, enjoying their relaxed pace, and watching life unfold around the harbor was a pleasure in itself. From the waterfront, we could see other yachts still maneuvering in the strong wind, while we enjoyed the comfort of being safely moored and settled in for the evening.
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Evening in Salina
For dinner, we once again fired up our on-board barbecue. It turned out that many of the neighboring yachts had the same idea, and soon the marina was filled with the aroma of grilling food. It felt like a friendly competition to see who could prepare the best steak.
Whether we won or not remains an open question, but we certainly enjoyed the result. Accompanied by a bottle of Sicilian wine, the meal was a perfect way to end the day and share stories from our voyage.
As the evening came to an end, we discussed our plans for the next day. We decided to sail to Lipari and explore the island by scooter. Lipari is known for its beautiful landscapes, charming town, and scenic coastal roads, making it an ideal place to discover beyond the harbor.
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From Sails to Scooters
On our way to Lipari, we added another round of sailing exercises to the day's program. The increasing wind provided good training conditions, although it also claimed one casualty — a hat that disappeared into the sea despite our efforts to recover it.
By the time we arrived in Lipari, the wind had strengthened considerably. After calling the marina, the marina staff were ready to assist us on arrival, helping us dock the yacht safely despite the challenging conditions.
Once the formalities were completed, we discussed our plans and quickly agreed on the best way to explore the island: scooters. Soon we were riding along Lipari's winding roads, enjoying the fresh air, beautiful coastal views, and the freedom to discover the island at our own pace.
Along the way, we stopped to buy a local liqueur, admired the scenery, and spent some time wandering through the charming streets of the town center. As evening approached, we made our way to the historic fortress overlooking the harbor, where we planned to enjoy dinner with a view.
Lipari proved to be full of hidden gems. Around every corner there seemed to be another viewpoint, a picturesque street, or a glimpse into the island's rich history and culture.
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The Island's Brightest Secret
One of Lipari's most remarkable hidden gems was the so-called White Canyon, a spectacular landscape shaped by the island's volcanic history. Surrounded by bright white cliffs and unusual rock formations, the area felt almost otherworldly, standing in sharp contrast to the deep blue sea nearby.
We decided not only to admire the canyon from a distance but to walk deep into it and explore the area on foot. The white pumice deposits, which were once mined extensively on Lipari, created a unique scenery unlike anything else we had seen during the trip. The ground, cliffs, and dust all seemed to glow in the sunlight, giving the place a striking appearance.
As we explored, we also discovered numerous pieces of obsidian, the black volcanic glass for which Lipari has been famous since prehistoric times. Formed when lava cools rapidly, obsidian was once an important trading material throughout the Mediterranean. Finding these shiny black stones scattered among the pale rocks was a fascinating reminder of the island's volcanic origins.
The White Canyon turned out to be one of the highlights of our visit to Lipari. Its unusual landscape, geological history, and hidden treasures made it a truly unforgettable place to explore.
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Finally to the Summit
The morning began with a relaxed walk through the streets of Lipari. We took the opportunity to buy a few souvenirs and postcards before enjoying a light lunch in town. With no need to rush, we prepared for a short passage to Vulcano, only about five nautical miles away.
There was one important goal for the day. Earlier in the trip, I had missed the ascent of Vulcano because I had to stay behind and deal with the damaged dinghy. This time, I was determined to reach the summit myself.
Before departure, we contacted Vulcano and reserved a mooring buoy, so everything was ready for our arrival. After a pleasant sail across the channel, we picked up the buoy and headed ashore.
The hike to the volcano turned out to be easier than expected and thoroughly enjoyable. The trail offered impressive views of the surrounding islands and the volcanic landscape that makes the Aeolian Islands so unique. Reaching the summit felt especially rewarding after having missed the opportunity earlier in the week.
Back on board, we celebrated with another delicious dinner and a bottle of wine. It was a perfect final evening among the islands, giving us time to reflect on the experiences of the past days.
Tomorrow, we would return to the marina and bring our sailing adventure to an end.
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Goodbye Aeolian Islands, Hello Palermo
After a relaxing and unforgettable week sailing among the Aeolian Islands, it was finally time to head home. We returned the yacht, said goodbye to the sea that had been our home for the past days, and started our journey back.
On the way to the airport, we had some time to spend in Palermo. As it was my first visit to the city, I wanted to make the most of it. We wandered through countless streets and squares, taking in the atmosphere and discovering the character of the Sicilian capital.
Palermo impressed us with its lively energy, beautiful architecture, bustling markets, and the unique blend of cultures that has shaped the city over centuries. Every street seemed to have its own story, and everywhere there was something interesting to see.
It was the perfect ending to our trip. After experiencing Sicily from the sea, we had the chance to enjoy it from the land as well. Palermo welcomed us with its charm, warmth, and vibrant spirit—a final reminder of Sicily at its very best.
Our sailing journey through the Aeolian Islands off the northern coast of Sicily was a remarkable blend of adventure, natural beauty, and cultural discovery. Over the course of our trip, we explored several of these volcanic islands, each offering its own distinct character and unforgettable experiences.
One of our first stops was Stromboli, known for its constantly active volcano. Although we had hoped to climb it, access was closed due to recent eruptions. Even so, witnessing the island from the sea was impressive—the dramatic black slopes rising sharply from the water and occasional smoke plumes reminding us of the raw power beneath the surface.
In contrast, our visit to Vulcano was far more hands-on. We successfully climbed the volcano, hiking up through rugged terrain to reach the crater. From the top, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the surrounding islands and the deep blue Tyrrhenian Sea. The scent of sulfur lingered in the air, a reminder of the island’s geothermal activity. Later, we relaxed in natural sulfur baths, an unusual but memorable experience that left us both amused and refreshed.
Salina offered a greener, more tranquil atmosphere. With its rolling hills and vineyards, it felt like a peaceful retreat compared to the more dramatic volcanic landscapes. We enjoyed sampling local cuisine here, including fresh seafood, capers for which the island is famous, and traditional Sicilian dishes that reflected the region’s rich culinary heritage.
On Lipari, the largest of the Aeolian Islands, we explored more extensively by scooter. This gave us the freedom to discover hidden beaches, charming villages, and scenic viewpoints at our own pace. The island’s mix of history, lively harbor life, and beautiful coastlines made it a highlight of the trip.
Throughout the journey, sailing itself was at the heart of our experience. We combined exploration with practical training, preparing for our sailing exam while navigating between the islands. Handling the boat under real conditions—adjusting to winds, currents, and changing weather—was both challenging and rewarding. There was a special sense of freedom in approaching each island by sea, dropping anchor in quiet bays, and watching the sunsets from the deck.
This journey through the Aeolian Islands was more than just a holiday; it was an immersive experience that combined learning, adventure, and relaxation. From volcanic landscapes and sulfur baths to delicious local food and the thrill of sailing, it left us with lasting memories and a deeper appreciation for this unique corner of the Mediterranean.
To complement this report, we have also created a video capturing some of our favorite impressions from the journey.
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Arrival in Trogir
We arrived at the yacht, completed a careful check-in, prepared the boat, loaded our provisions, and bought fresh meat and vegetables. I also brought our gennaker, hoping to use it in Croatia's light summer winds. In the evening we explored the old town of Trogir, a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its narrow stone streets, old churches, and medieval buildings make it one of the best-preserved historic towns on the Adriatic coast.
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Crew Training and First Miles
Before leaving, everyone received a safety briefing. We learned how to use the winches, practiced Mediterranean mooring with ropes, and trained basic yacht handling under engine. Everyone practiced steering, stopping the yacht, and emergency maneuvers. These exercises helped the crew gain confidence before starting the real adventure.
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First Night at Šešula Bay (Šićenica Bay)
Our first destination was the peaceful Bay of Šićenica, where we found a free mooring ball. After arriving, we jumped into the clear Adriatic Sea, enjoyed a swim, and prepared dinner on board. The bay is surrounded by untouched nature and offers calm water, making it a perfect place to relax and enjoy the first Croatian sunset.
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Sailing Training on the Way to Žirje
The wind was finally good enough to raise the sails. Instead of rushing, we spent time learning. The crew practiced reefing, trimming sails, and changing sail configurations. Later we hoisted the gennaker and enjoyed smooth sailing at around six knots with only eight knots of wind. It was a perfect lesson in efficient sailing.
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Relaxing on Žirje Island
We reached the quiet island of Žirje and were lucky to find a free mooring ball. After a swim and a snack, we walked to the Benedictine Monastery. Žirje is one of the most peaceful Croatian islands, known for its olive trees, vineyards, and traditional island lifestyle. The evening ended with board games and a relaxed atmosphere on board.
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Swim Stop at Tijat and Visit to Tribunj
A fast sail brought us close to Tribunj earlier than expected, so we stopped near Tijat Island for a refreshing swim and a drink. Later we entered the marina in Tribunj, where the crew performed an excellent docking. Tribunj is a charming old fishing town with stone houses, small streets, and even a street puppet theatre that delights children. We finished the day with photos, postcards, and an unexpectedly delicious kebab.
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Slow Day Around Vodice and Kokan Bay
We enjoyed an easy morning before sailing to Vodice. Some relaxed on the beach while others explored the town with coffee, cake, and ice cream. Vodice is one of the most popular holiday towns on the Croatian coast, famous for its beaches and lively atmosphere. For the night we escaped the busy party boats and anchored in peaceful Kokan Bay, enjoying silence under the stars.
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Rogoznica and the Dragon's Eye
With suitable wind we sailed under the gennaker before changing to the solent as the wind shifted. We moored in Rogoznica and watched local fishermen unload their catch, showing that fishing is still an important part of daily life here. Later we visited the Lavender Labyrinth and the famous Dragon's Eye Lake, a unique saltwater lake surrounded by legends. The day ended with fresh fried fish and local Croatian cuisine.
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Return Through Vinišće and Račetinovac Bay
On the final sailing day we slowly returned toward Trogir. Along the way we explored Vinišće, a quiet village with a deep, well-protected bay that looks like an excellent future destination. We continued to Račetinovac Bay, arriving early enough to secure a good anchoring spot. Later many boats arrived, and some struggled to anchor properly, reminding us how important good seamanship is.
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Back to Trogir
Returning to Trogir was almost our biggest challenge. More than a hundred yachts were waiting to refuel before the end of the charter week. Fortunately, the marina staff handled everything professionally, quickly refueled the yacht, and parked it for us. It was the perfect ending to a calm and memorable week filled with sailing, learning, beautiful Croatian scenery, and great company.
This sailing trip took us along the beautiful Dalmatian coast of Croatia, starting and ending in the historic town of Trogir. During one relaxing week we visited peaceful bays, quiet islands, charming coastal towns, and hidden anchorages while enjoying the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea.
The trip was not about covering long distances, but about enjoying the journey. We combined crew training with relaxed sailing, giving everyone the opportunity to practice yacht handling, sail trim, docking, and anchoring in real conditions. As the week progressed, the crew became more confident and every maneuver became smoother.
Thanks to favorable summer weather, we sailed under both the mainsail and gennaker, explored picturesque islands, swam almost every day, and discovered places rich in history, culture, and local traditions. Medieval towns, fishing harbors, scenic walking trails, and quiet coves all became part of our adventure.
Evenings were spent enjoying local food, watching sunsets, playing board games, or simply relaxing in peaceful anchorages. The trip offered a perfect balance between sailing, sightseeing, and time to slow down and enjoy life at sea.
The following chapters describe the journey step by step, following our route from Trogir through the islands and coastal towns before returning safely to our home marina after another memorable week on the Adriatic.
To complement this report, we have also created a video capturing some of our favorite impressions from the journey.
