Lofoten 2025, first trip: Impressions.

Sailing Adventure in the North Sea: Exploring the Lofoten islands in the middle of white nights

This is report about [Sailing impressions] Sailing on Lofoten, so you can read and have picture fr yourself, how it looks like on breathtaking Lofoten islands. And of course JOIN!

We love pushing the boundaries of our sailing adventures, and this time we set our course for one of the most breathtaking destinations we’ve ever visited: the Lofoten Islands in Norway. Imagine sailing between towering Arctic peaks that rise straight out of the sea, navigating through narrow fjords lined with waterfalls, and weaving among countless small islands scattered like pearls on the water. The raw beauty of the North Sea took our breath away at every turn. And yes—we even dared to take a swim in the icy waters!

This trip was made possible by a rare gift: calm conditions on the usually fierce North Sea. Seizing the opportunity, we decided to explore the wilder, less-traveled western side of the Lofoten Islands. Unlike the southern islands, this region is far less visited by tourists, and we found ourselves completely alone on the water—no crowds, no other yachts, just the serenity of solitude and the quiet joy of being off the beaten path.

We drifted slowly around Langøya, gliding into fjords and making our way toward Skogsøya, where the scenery seemed almost unreal. Waterfalls cascaded down cliffs, dolphins surfaced playfully beside our boat, salmon farms dotted the rugged coastline, and beyond it all stretched the infinite sea, pointing northward toward the pole. It was a landscape that held us spellbound.

Our adventure wasn’t limited to the water. We visited the Hurtigruten Museum, where we learned about the history of Norway’s famous coastal express line and its vital role in connecting the people of Lofoten. And, of course, we couldn’t resist setting foot on land for a few mountain hikes, where every trail rewarded us with views as stunning as the sails that carried us there.

This journey gave us more than just sights—it offered a rare sense of remoteness, discovery, and connection with nature that will stay with us long after the sails are folded.

Harstad: A Cozy Gateway of Quirks and History Before Setting Sail

Of course, every journey begins with a little anticipation while waiting for the yacht. In our case, we had to give the crew some time to finish cleaning and preparing the boat. But instead of waiting idly, we wandered off to explore the town of Harstad. We slipped into small bakeries, savoring cappuccinos and cakes, and quickly discovered how cozy and welcoming the Harstadians make their town feel. We couldn’t help but smile at the quirky details scattered around the streets—robes strung up between houses, little ceramic dwarves peeking from garden corners, and the quiet humor woven into everyday life.
As we strolled, we also learned that Harstad is more than just a charming gateway to the Lofoten Islands. Founded in 1904, the town is the cultural and commercial hub of southern Troms. It is home to Trondenes Church, the world’s northernmost medieval stone church, dating back to the 13th century. Nearby lies the Trondenes Historical Center, which tells the story of the Vikings and even the darker days of World War II, when Harstad was used as a German naval base. Knowing this, our casual walk through the town suddenly felt like stepping into layers of history, where cozy cafés and modern life sit side by side with centuries-old traditions.
By the time our yacht was ready, we had already fallen a little bit in love with Harstad’s blend of warmth, quirkiness, and rich history—an unexpected prologue to our Arctic sailing adventure.
Provisioning and Preparations: Setting the Stage for Our Voyage

Once the yacht was finally ready, it was time for the essential checks. As skipper, I was busy making sure everything on board was in working order, while the crew turned to their own mission—the most important task of all: provisioning. Being four gentlemen with healthy appetites, we had carefully planned a menu for the week, chosen our drinks, and headed out for supplies. Thanks to our preparations, the shopping was smooth and efficient. With the galley now stocked, we enjoyed a quick meal on shore before returning to the marina. At last, all was ready—we were prepared to cast off and let the adventure begin.
Sailing Into the White Nights

The Lofoten Islands lie above the Arctic Circle, where summer brings the magic of the “white nights.” It never truly gets dark—at most, the sky softens to a twilight glow, as if hidden behind clouds. We decided to make the most of this endless daylight and set out on our journey right from the first day.
We didn’t go far, just a short sail of about three hours before reaching a beautiful, sheltered bay. It was the perfect place to ease into our adventure. Here we took time to get to know the yacht—testing how she behaved under engine, feeling the pull of the prop walk, and practicing the essentials: setting sails, trimming them, and learning how to reef. The usual drills, but always exciting when done in a new place, under the soft Arctic light that never fades.
North to Langøya: Solitude, Bridges, and the Edge of the Whale Route

After our first calm night at anchor, we quickly learned an important lesson about sailing above the Arctic Circle: if you want proper sleep, you need to darken the cabins. The lingering light of the polar night is as bright as dawn—beautiful, but not exactly sleep-friendly! With the help of a much-needed cup of coffee, we began the next leg of our journey.

The forecast promised several days of calm weather on the North Sea, so we set our course around Langøya, the second-largest island in the Lofoten and Vesterålen archipelago. Unlike the southern islands, which attract most of the tourists, this northern part is wilder and far less traveled—perfect for the kind of solitude we were seeking. Gliding across flat waters with just a whisper of breeze, our yacht picked up speed and easily touched 8 knots.

To pass through a narrow, unfamiliar channel beneath a low bridge, we prudently took the sails down, keeping full control under engine. In the background, we watched cold katabatic air spilling down from the mountain ridges, drying into wisps of cloud as it fell. We knew that just on the other side, the weather was less comfortable—but here, it was nothing more than air moving across the landscape, not the dreaded Arctic winds sailors often fear.

By evening, we reached Stø, the northernmost village on Langøya. Once a thriving fishing hub, today it feels almost like the edge of the world, with colorful houses scattered along the rocky shoreline and the open ocean stretching endlessly beyond. On that quiet Saturday, the village seemed like a forgotten place, infused with a haunting beauty. Yet we learned that during weekends, Stø comes alive—famous as the starting point for whale safaris, where orcas and sperm whales are often spotted in the deep waters offshore. For us, though, it was the spirit of remoteness and the whispers of history that gave the place its magic.
Drifting Through the Timeless Beauty of the Arctic Lofoten

What impressed us most was the landscape itself—the way the steep mountain ridges rise straight from the sea, with small houses and lonely churches scattered across the land as if tossed there by hand, like seeds in a field. Every glance felt like a painting, every direction revealed another masterpiece. Out here, you lose all sense of time, distance, or even purpose. The endless beauty of the Arctic makes you drift away from the noise and distractions of everyday life, leaving only the quiet rhythm of sea and sky.
A Polar Circle Swim in the Arctic Sun

As strange as it may sound, after some time we almost forgot that we were sailing above the Arctic Circle. The sky was brilliantly blue, the sun shone warmly upon us, an
d its golden beams felt more like summer than the far north. In such moments, the temptation was impossible to resist—we decided we had to swim.

We found a sheltered bay, dropped anchor, and without hesitation jumped into the water. The illusion of warmth vanished instantly. The sea was shockingly cold, its icy grip reminding us exactly where we were. Our swimming time was measured in seconds rather than minutes, but those brief moments were unforgettable—refreshing, exhilarating, and perhaps only survivable thanks to the body’s quick defense against the freezing water, something like a human Leidenfrost effect. Emerging back onto the deck, shivering and laughing, we agreed it was madness—but the kind of madness you never regret.
Wind in the Sails to Stokmarknes

As we rounded Langøya, we slipped into the influence of a southern flow and finally felt the wind pick up. It was time to show our sails to the Arctic mountains. In no time, the yacht leaned into the breeze and once again became what she was meant to be—a sailing vessel, gliding silently across the water. The mountains stood like guardians around us as we made steady progress toward our next destination: Stokmarknes.

Nestled on the island of Hadseløya, Stokmarknes is a small but lively town with a deep connection to the sea. It is best known as the birthplace of the Hurtigruten coastal express, the historic shipping route that linked Norway’s scattered coastal communities for over a century. Today, the town proudly celebrates this heritage with the Hurtigruten Museum, where the retired ship MS Finnmarken is preserved as a floating exhibit. This was the heart of our visit—an opportunity to step into maritime history and understand how vital these ships were to the lives of the Lofoten and Vesterålen people.
Tracing the Legacy of Hurtigruten in Stokmarknes

The next day we devoted almost entirely to the Hurtigruten Museum, a place that brought the spirit of Norway’s coastal history vividly to life. Walking through the exhibition and stepping aboard the retired ship MS Finnmarken, we were immersed in the story of the “coastal express”—from its humble beginnings in 1893, through its growth into a lifeline for remote communities, to the hardships and triumphs that shaped its legacy.
We were especially moved by the chapters about World War II. During the German occupation, Hurtigruten ships continued to sail despite great danger. They were vital for transporting food, mail, and passengers, but that made them targets. Several vessels were sunk, sometimes with heavy loss of civilian life. Reading about the attacks—silent fjords turned into battlefields—was both sobering and inspiring. The fact that Hurtigruten survived those dark years, rebuilt its fleet, and regained its role as the heartbeat of Norway’s coastline is nothing short of remarkable. For me, as something of a maritime enthusiast, it was a highlight of the journey—a chance to connect with a history I had long admired.
After the museum, we took a short walk through the town of Stokmarknes, enjoying its mix of modern harbor life and small-town charm, before stocking up on provisions for the coming days. The forecast warned of stronger winds later in the week, so we made a pragmatic decision: to head toward our final marina earlier than planned. Better to avoid the stress of battling stormy weather on the very last day, when the real work—refueling, cleaning the yacht, and handing her back—still awaited us.
Drifting South with the Wind to Reinsnesøya

Since the stronger winds were still a few days away, there was no need to rush. We set the sails and headed toward Sortland, though our real destination was a quiet little bay near Reinsnesøya. With the wind at our back, the yacht slipped forward with ease, carrying us gently through the water. Passing under the Sortland Bridge was effortless this time; in such narrow passages the wind is usually either dead ahead or straight behind, but fortune favored us and we avoided the endless tacking that so often comes with headwinds.
The day ended in perfect simplicity—anchored in calm waters, sharing a delicious quiche, and savoring the unhurried rhythm of life at sea.
A Hike Above Risøyhamn: From Sea to Bjørnfjell

It would have been a waste not to make use of Lofoten’s greatest treasure—the mountains. So, after arriving in Risøyhamn, we took advantage of a spell of good weather and set out for a short hike up a nearby hill. The climb was gentle, but the reward was immense. From the top, the view opened wide across the landscape, revealing the village of Bjørnskinn, the long stretches of Andøya, and the endless sea beyond.

Above us towered Bjørnfjell, the “Bear Mountain,” rising more than 500 meters over the coast. Local legends say it was named after the bears that once roamed these parts, though today its slopes are home to nothing fiercer than seabirds and reindeer. Standing there, with the yacht anchored far below and the Arctic horizon stretching in every direction, we felt the unique magic of Lofoten—a place where sea and mountain are inseparably bound.
Safe Harbour in Harstad: Closing the Circle

On our final day, we set off early to return to Harstad and refuel the yacht. We were one day ahead of schedule, but for good reason: the forecast warned that a storm was sweeping in from Scotland. By the next morning, it had indeed arrived. Fortunately, we were already secure inside the harbor, where only the gentlest breeze could be felt. Outside, however, the scene was very different—yachts came in heavy with spray, sails reefed down, crews cold and drenched. Watching them confirmed how right the decision had been.

For me, good seamanship is as much about planning as it is about courage. I prefer to shape my sailing around the weather rather than fight it, especially in unfamiliar waters where local conditions can bend the forecasts. In such places, the advice of local sailors is priceless—no model or chart can match the centuries of knowledge carried in their words.

That evening, with the yacht safely moored and our final dinner shared, we reflected on the journey. The Lofoten had astonished us with its raw beauty, solitude, and the unforgettable blend of sea and mountain. One thing is certain: this was not a farewell, but a beginning. I will most definitely return to sail here again next summer.